Off the Bourbon path

Widen your horizons at the best bars and restaurants beyond New Orleans's French Quarter.

by Mary Marge Locker

In some of New Orleans’s most exciting neighborhoods, there is more to be found than the sugary booze and roving bachelorette parties of the French Quarter. Assembled here are some fine eateries, bars, and dessert shops perfect for the next time you want to try something new in the magical sprawl of the Big Easy.

The Bywater

In this ultra-hip neighborhood of colorful shotguns and fantastic river views, hunker down for a fresh breakfast, a nap-inducing brunch, or light tapas and big bottles of wine to the tune of local blues.

601 Gallier Street

For an alternate, more intense way to start the day, settle into the old-fashioned seats at Elizabeth's and order the Bayou Breakfast: a stacked plate of fried catfish with eggs and grits or hashbrowns. You might want to try some of the praline-candied bacon, too, but don't expect to finish it all. Their motto "Real food done real good" is all you need to know. The staff is friendly, the wait is not overwhelming, and there is nice sidewalk seating when the weather cooperates.

3218 Dauphine Street

For a lighter start to your day, go with a dish like Mexican breakfast (served with delectably creamy black beans) or the Garden Tartine, both perfectly balanced and — rare in New Orleans — not too filling to bog down your day. Satsuma is health-conscious and earth-focused, a nice break from so much else in New Orleans. See below.

Satsuma Cafe
600 Poland Avenue

At Bacchanal, step through the front-of-house wine store and ask for staff recommendations on a bottle. Pay in the shop, then pass through to the backyard and snag a table. Order tapas like the bacon-wrapped dates and tomatoes with haloumi, and open that wine. Bacchanal hosts live, local music most nights of the week, and it's more than your local dive bar's open mic. The artists are as good as the food is, and the backyard is nothing other than a magical escape in the middle of the city.

Bacchanal Fine Wine & Spirits

Central Business District

Just beyond the reach of the Quarter's allure (and frat boys, and sugar-soaked drinks), take a stroll through the up-and-coming warehouse district. Hop on the cable car after a meaty, delicious lunch, or hop off it in the evening just outside the doors of Peche.

930 Tchoupitoulas Street

At Cochon, order any of the meat-centric sandwiches like a Cubano, or the historic New Orleans muffaletta and add a side of classic New Orleans Zapp's chips or creamy, crusty individual dishes of mac ‘n cheese. Cochon Butcher is located just off the Museum District, and after your lunch you'll enjoy checking out the Ogden Museum of Southern Art, brimming with folk art pieces and major exhibitions from world-class artists.

800 Magazine Street

Peche is the perfect spot for an upscale happy hour, but it's just as good for a late dinner, too. The raw options are really the treat here: Sit at the bar and try a classic 4:30pm combo of a half dozen oysters and a glass of champagne, ideal if you're traveling solo. For a group, make dinner reservations and share the raw platter, a fruits de mer spread as delicious as it is simple. Order whatever fish is on special, at market price. Concoctions like a collar cut of yellowtail infused with ginger and soy sauce are sure to both delight and inspire.

Peche Seafood Grill
916 Lafayette Street

In a gorgeous historic building that has served almost every purpose under the sun (including as a brothel), CellarDoor’s small, refined menu is as exciting as their famous and fabulous cocktail list, styled as a timeline. The list begins with the early 1600s punch and passes through the 1902 daiquiri on to the 1971 Harvey Wallbanger.



Incorporating several smaller neighborhoods, let these three divergent classics give you a taste of the intersecting cultures of the city. Be prepared to wait in lines in the high season at both Domilise's and Hansen's, but relax after on the patio at Cure with a mean cocktail and a quiet crowd.

5240 Annunciation Street

A favorite of Anthony Bourdain and locals alike, the out-the-door wait for a Domilise’s po-boy is well worth it. In New Orleans, opting for seafood is usually the rule, but you might make an exception (or double your order) for a roast beef po-boy as well.

Domilise's Po-Boys
4801 Tchoupitoulas Street

Open only in the dead heat of summer, expect another out-the-door wait at this eighty-year-old snow cone stand. You’ll be shocked at how velvety ice can be—all from a low-tech machine developed almost a century ago. Trust the kids working on what flavors go together best: Satsuma and vanilla bean is a classic combo.

Hansen's Sno-Bliz
4905 Freret Street

Located in the friendly and up-and-coming Freret district, Cure is a haven for good conversation in its large, quiet booths or the tables on its secluded back patio. The drinks list is charming, and the changing cocktail menu features classics as well as new creations.


Garden District

Try out a famed classic, an up-and-coming favorite, and a new twist on the classic French patisserie in these spots just off the main drag of Magazine Street.

1403 Washington Avenue

Commander's Palace is holy ground in New Orleans. For dinner, it's perfect for celebrations like a birthday, an anniversary, or a splurge — but it's at midday that the place comes alive with local color, and a bit of danger, too. Lunch at the classic New Orleans restaurant is just as famous for its dress code as for its 25-cent martini menu. That's right. 25 cents. You've been warned. But beyond the drinks, go for the turtle soup. Dreamed up nearly 100 years ago and simmered down for days before serving, nothing could be more delicious or more New Orleans. Follow it up with a special, and maybe just another martini to wet your whistle before you're back in the heat.

Commander's Palace
3025 Magazine Street

Speaking of a sweet tooth, step into Sucre for a European-inspired mélange of fine desserts: from gelato to eclairs to dainty, bright macarons. Featured in numerous magazines, and a personal favorite of Oprah Winfrey, this shop will have something for every set of tastebuds.

4807 Magazine Street

Begun as a juice bar, the two funky locations of Surrey’s (both on Magazine Street) are worth the line at peak brunch-time. Try their variations on huevos rancheros (with smoked salmon) or opt for something sweet with bananas foster French toast.

Surrey's Uptown
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